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    • 专利摘要:
    Method for dyeing hair where a first composition comprising at least one cationic polymer and a second composition comprising at least one anionic polymer are alternately applied to the hair, where at least one of the cationic and anionic polymers is colored.
    公开号:BR112017008084B1
    申请号:R112017008084-2
    申请日:2015-10-29
    公开日:2020-12-01
    发明作者:Matija CRNE；Lars Dahne；Gabriella Egri；Christian Funk；Mathias Kurt Herrlein；Klaus Hilbig；Moritz Klickermann；Tatjana SCHAFER
    申请人:Noxell Corporation；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    Field of the Invention
    [001] The invention relates to a method for dyeing hair comprising the application of two different compositions which are successively applied to the hair. The first composition comprises at least one cationic polymer and the second composition comprises at least one anionic polymer. The hair color that is obtained according to the method of the present invention is particularly advantageous particularly in terms of fixation, stability and customization of the color result. Background of the Invention
    [002] Different methods for changing the natural color of hair are known in the literature. These methods involve the use of hair coloring compositions that allow permanent or temporary change of hair color. Hair coloring compositions that are used to permanently change hair color, also called oxidative hair coloring compositions, typically comprise precursors of oxidative hair pigments, which diffuse into the hair through the cuticle and into the cortex where they then react with each other and a suitable oxidizing agent to form the molecules of the final pigment. Due to their larger size, the resulting molecules are unable to easily diffuse out of the hair during subsequent washing with water and / or detergents; thus distributing the color permanence desired by the consumer. This reaction typically occurs at a pH of approximately 10 to 11 in the presence of an alkalizing agent and an oxidizing agent. Typically, an oxidizing composition (also called a developer and / or oxidizing component) comprising the oxidizing agent and a pigmenting composition (also called a dye or pigmenting component) comprising the alkalizing agent and, if present, hair pigment precursors are mixed immediately before use. The consumer repeats this process regularly in order to maintain the desired color, shade and color intensity in the hair and to ensure uniform and continuous coverage of the hair, including coverage of new hair growth. The problem with traditional oxidative hair coloring methods is that the conditions under which the reaction occurs, that is, the high pH value as well as the presence of an oxidizing agent, can cause damage to the hair structure and can irritate the hair. the user's scalp, especially when such a process is repeated regularly and the compositions that are normally used have an undesirable smell. Furthermore, obtaining the desired color result is not easy since the traditional oxidative hair coloring compositions are reactive compositions and, therefore, it is not easy to control their reaction on the hair.
    [003] Alternatively, methods for temporarily changing hair color have also been developed. These methods usually involve the application of hair coloring compositions comprising direct pigments. Direct pigment compositions are generally less aggressive to the hair in the sense that they are not reactive compositions. However, the problem with these compositions is that the hair coloring that is obtained is typically characterized by a weaker fixation than when the hair is dyed with traditional oxidative hair coloring compositions, especially when the hair is washed with compositions of traditional shampoo. Another problem with direct pigments is that since direct pigments are low molecular weight molecules, they may also tend to dye the user's scalp.
    [004] Therefore, there is still a need for a method to dye the hair that provides the desired color result and color intensity to the hair in an easy way. There is also a need for a method to dye the hair that provides the hair with a color that is characterized by better stability and good fixation. In addition, a method for dyeing hair that involves the use of hair coloring compositions that are less aggressive to the hair and scalp is also needed. Finally, it is also necessary to have a method for dyeing hair using compositions that are less smelly. Summary of the Invention
    [005] The present invention relates to a method for dyeing hair comprising: a) carrying out the following sequence of steps: i) applying a first composition comprising at least one cationic polymer to a first portion of the hair; and ii) applying a second composition comprising at least one anionic polymer to a second portion of the hair; the first and second portions of the hair having at least one common area; and b) repeat step a) at least once, where the common area of each of the repeated steps a) has at least one common area with: - the common area of step a); and - the common area of each of the other steps a) repeated, if step a) is repeated more than once; where in step a) and / or at least one of the steps a) repeated, the cationic polymer is a colored cationic polymer and / or the anionic polymer is a colored anionic polymer.
    [006] The present invention also relates to hair coloring obtainable by the above method.
    [007] Finally, the present invention also relates to a hair dye kit comprising a first compartment comprising the first composition defined above and a second compartment comprising the second composition defined above. Detailed Description of the Invention
    [008] As used in this report, the term "hair" to be treated can be "live" hair, that is, on a living body, or it can be "inanimate", that is, on a wig, or other aggregation of inanimate keratin fibers. Mammalian hair, preferably human hair, is preferred. However, wool, kidney and other fibers containing keratin are suitable substrates for the compositions according to the present invention.
    [009] All ratios or percentages are ratios by weight or percentages by weight, unless specifically stated otherwise.
    [0010] By "cationic polymer" is meant any polymer comprising a full charge in full protonation that is positive.
    [0011] By "colored cationic polymer" is meant any cationic polymer comprising at least one chromophore and / or at least one fluorophore either in the skeleton or as a pendant group.
    [0012] By "colorless cationic polymer" is meant any cationic polymer that does not comprise any chromophore or fluorophore either in the skeleton or as a pendant group.
    [0013] By "anionic polymer" is meant any polymer comprising a full charge in complete deprotonation which is negative.
    [0014] By "colored anionic polymer" is meant any anionic polymer comprising at least one chromophore and / or at least one fluorophore either in the skeleton or as a pendant group.
    [0015] By "colorless anionic polymer" is meant any anionic polymer that does not comprise any chromophore or fluorophore either in the skeleton or as a pendant group.
    [0016] By "complete protonation" is meant the state in which the different protonable groups of a polymer are fully protonated.
    [0017] By "complete deprotonation" is meant the state in which the different deprotonable groups of a polymer are completely deprotonated. Method to dye hair
    The present invention relates to a method for dyeing hair comprising step a) of carrying out the following sequence of steps: i) applying a first composition comprising at least one cationic polymer to a first portion of the hair; and ii) applying a second composition comprising at least one anionic polymer to a second portion of the hair, where the first and second portions have at least one common area.
    [0019] The second composition is applied after the first composition to the hair.
    [0020] Having at least one common area between the first portion of the hair to which the first composition is applied and the second portion of the hair to which the second composition is applied ensures that at least a portion of the second composition will be applied to the same portion of the hair than at least a portion of the first composition.
    [0021] The method also comprises step b) of repeating step a) at least once, where the common area of each of the repeated steps a) has at least one common area with the common area of step a) and the common area of each of the other steps a) repeated, if step a) is repeated more than once. This ensures that at least a portion of each of the first and second compositions that are applied to the hair in each of the step sequences is applied to the same portion of the hair.
    [0022] Each of the first compositions of step a) and of steps a) repeated may be the same or different. Each of the second compositions of step a) and repeated steps a) may be the same or different.
    [0023] In step a) and / or in at least one of the repeated steps a), the cationic polymer is a colored cationic polymer and / or the anionic polymer is a colored anionic polymer.
    [0024] In step a) and / or in each of the steps a) repeated, the cationic polymer can be a colored cationic polymer and / or the anionic polymer can be a colored anionic polymer.
    [0025] In step a) and / or in each of the steps a) repeated, the first and second compositions can be applied to all hair.
    [0026] In step b), step a) can be repeated at least at least twice, alternatively at least three times. Alternatively, in step b), step a) can be repeated 1 to 3 times.
    [0027] The method according to the present invention is particularly advantageous. In fact, by carrying out this method, it is possible to give the hair the desired color result and color intensity in an easy way. The method is unique in that in each of the step sequences a second composition comprising at least one anionic polymer is applied to the hair after a first composition comprising at least one cationic polymer has been applied to the hair.
    [0028] As the cationic polymers and anionic polymers that are comprised respectively in the first composition and in the second composition are molecules of high molecular weight, they generally do not diffuse into the hair or at least only to a limited extent when compared to others pigments used in traditional oxidative hair coloring methods. They usually form polymeric layers on the hair that are placed on top of each other by alternating deposition of cationic polymers and anionic polymers. By carrying out the sequence of steps of the method according to the present invention more than once, it is possible to obtain more than two polymeric layers on the hair and therefore have better control over the color result and the color intensity. final results that are obtained. With the increase in the number of layers that are applied to the hair, it is possible to obtain hair colorations having increased color intensity. The user can decide how many times the sequence of steps should be repeated and, therefore, have better control over the color result that is obtained in the hair.
    [0029] Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to apply a second composition comprising at least one anionic polymer to the hair after having applied a first composition comprising at least one cationic polymer. In fact, the polymer that is comprised in the second composition is negatively charged and, therefore, the outer layer of the coated hair has an electrostatic structure that is similar to that of the outer layer of natural hair. Therefore, it is possible to apply traditional cationic conditioners to the hair after the hair dyeing process.
    [0030] It is particularly important for the method according to the present invention to have an anionic polymeric layer that is placed over the cationic polymeric layer. In fact, the presence of the anionic layer is essential for it to be possible to apply a subsequent cationic layer on it when the sequence of steps of the method is performed more than once. Although we do not want to stick to the theory, it is also believed that, in some modalities, the anionic polymeric layer can act as a protective layer for the colored cationic layer that is placed below and, therefore, can contribute to good color fixation. of the hair.
    [0031] Furthermore, the compositions that are used in the method according to the present invention are particularly advantageous since, unlike traditional oxidative hair coloring compositions, these compositions are typically odorless.
    [0032] The first composition of step a) can comprise at least one colored cationic polymer and the first composition of step a) repeated can comprise at least one colorless cationic polymer.
    [0033] The method may further comprise step c) of applying, after step a), a third composition comprising at least one cationic polymer to a third portion of the hair where the third portion of the hair has at least one common area with the common area of step a).
    [0034] Alternatively, the method can further comprise step d) of applying, after step b), a third composition comprising at least one cationic polymer to a third portion of the hair, where the third portion of the hair has at least one common area with the common area of step b).
    [0035] In steps c) and / or d), the third composition can be applied to all hair. The cationic polymer comprised in the third composition may be a colored cationic polymer or a colorless polymer cationic.
    [0036] Having a cationic polymeric layer over the anionic layer, it is possible to provide the user with a good feeling in the hair that is similar to that obtained when traditional commercially available conditioners are applied to the hair.
    [0037] Steps i) and / or ii) of the method sequence of steps may further comprise the subsequent substep of removing the excess, respectively, of the first composition and / or the second composition of the hair.
    [0038] The steps i) and / or ii) of the sequence of steps of the method can also comprise the subsequent substep of applying energy to the hair in the form of heat, ultrasound, infrared and / or microwave. This substep can be performed either after applying the first or second composition to the hair or after removing the excess of the first composition or the second composition from the hair. Although we do not want to stick to the theory, it is believed that applying energy to the hair can accelerate the speed of formation of the polymeric layers on the hair and, therefore, can increase the stability of the layers after they are formed on the hair. The hair can be heated to a temperature ranging from 5 ° C to 70 ° C, alternatively 20 ° C to 60 ° C, alternatively 40 ° C to 60 ° C.
    [0039] Steps i) and / or ii) of the method's sequence of steps may further comprise the subsequent substep of washing and / or rinsing the hair. The hair can be washed and / or rinsed with a liquid selected from the group consisting of a cosmetically acceptable solvent, a solution comprising a cosmetically acceptable solvent and a cosmetically acceptable salt, a shampoo composition and mixtures thereof. Alternatively, the hair can be washed and / or rinsed with water.
    [0040] After carrying out the method according to the present invention, a conditioning agent can be applied to the hair. Any of the conditioning agents described below can be applied to the hair.
    [0041] The hair can be pre-treated before step i) of the first sequence of steps to modify the number of positive or negative charges on some parts of the hair or on the whole hair. This pre-treatment can be done using chemical or physical means such as changing the pH, oxidation, reduction, discoloration, plasma treatment, ozone treatment, electrocomposition, ion treatment with dry or wet hair.
    [0042] Depending on the hair load, cationic and / or anionic polymers can more or less easily stick to the hair and, therefore, a different color result can be obtained in different portions of the hair that have different loads. This pre-treatment can therefore help to customize the color result that is obtained in different portions of the hair, for example, to obtain a different color result in the hair root vs. the ends of the hair.
    [0043] Cationic polymer
    [0044] The cationic polymer that is included in the first composition can be selected from the group consisting of colored cationic polymers, colorless cationic polymers and mixtures thereof.
    [0045] Each of the cationic polymers that are included in each of the first compositions of step a) and of steps a) repeated can be the same or different.
    [0046] In step a) and / or in at least one of the steps a) repeated, the cationic polymer can be a colored cationic polymer.
    [0047] In step a) and / or in each of the steps a) repeated, the cationic polymer can be a colored cationic polymer.
    [0048] The cationic polymers according to the present invention can comprise at least one monomeric unit comprising at least one amino functional group. The amino functional group can be selected from the group consisting of primary, secondary, tertiary, quaternary amino functional groups and mixtures thereof. Alternatively, the amino functional group can be selected from the group consisting of primary, secondary amino functional groups and mixtures thereof. Alternatively, the amino functional group can be selected from secondary amino functional groups.
    [0049] Cationic polymers can have a full protonated charge density of at least 0.3, alternatively at least 0.6, alternatively at least 0.8, alternatively at least 1.0 positive charges per monomeric unit.
    [0050] Cationic polymers can have an average molecular weight of more than 0.5 kD, alternatively from 0.5 to 5000 kD, alternatively from 2 to 1000 kD, alternatively from 10 to 500 kD, alternatively from 25 to 70 kD .
    [0051] Cationic polymers can be selected from the group consisting of linear polyethyleneimine (linear PEI), branched polyethyleneimine (branched PEI), polyalylamine hydrochloride (PAH), polydialldimethylammonium chloride (PDADMAC), copolymers thereof and mixtures thereof.
    [0052] Cationic polymers can be selected from the group consisting of: a) Linear polyethyleneimine of the formula:
    where n is an integer representing the degree of polymerization, where n ranges from 50 to 20,000, alternatively from 100 to 3,500; b) Branched polyethyleneimine consisting of primary, secondary and tertiary amine of the formula:
    where n is an integer representing the degree of polymerization, where n ranges from 10 to 4,000, alternatively from 50 to 1,000; c) Polyallylamine hydrochloride (PAH) of the formula: in which n is an integer representing the degree of polymerization, where n varies from 50 to 20,000, alternatively from 150 to 800; d) Polydialyldimethylammonium chloride (PDADMAC) of the formula:
    in which n is an integer represented the degree of polymerization, where n varies from 50 to 20,000, alternatively from 150 to 4,000; copolymers and mixtures thereof. [0052] Cationic polymers can comprise one or more compounds selected from the group consisting of cosmically active molecules, care ingredients, optically active molecules, pharmaceutical active molecules, biomarkers and mixtures thereof.
    [0053] Anionic polymer
    [0054] The anionic polymer that is comprised in the second composition can be selected from the group consisting of colored anionic polymers, colorless anionic polymers and mixtures thereof.
    [0055] Each of the anionic polymers that are comprised in each of the second compositions of step a) and of steps a) repeated can be the same or different.
    [0056] In step a) and / or in at least one of the steps a) repeated, the anionic polymer can be a colored anionic polymer.
    [0057] In step a) and / or in each of the steps a) repeated, the anionic polymer can be a colored anionic polymer.
    [0058] The anionic polymer may have a charge density in complete deprotonation of at least 0.3, alternatively at least 0.6, alternatively at least 0.8, alternatively at least 1.0 negative charges per monomeric unit.
    [0059] The anionic polymer can have an average molecular weight of at least 1 kD, alternatively from 10 kD to 1000 kD, alternatively from 70 to 500 kD.
    [0060] The anionic polymer can comprise at least one monomer unit comprising at least one functional group selected from the group consisting of sulfate, sulfonate, carboxylate, phosphate, phosphonate groups and mixtures thereof. Alternatively, the functional group can be selected from the group consisting of sulfate, sulfonate, carboxylate groups and mixtures thereof.
    [0061] Anionic polymers can be selected from the group consisting of polystyrene sulfonate (PSS), λ-carrageenan salts, dextran sulfate salts, polyacrylic acid (PAA), poly (methacrylic acid) salts, acid salts alginic acid, carboxymethylcellulose salts, cup-polymers thereof and mixtures thereof. The salts can be sodium salts.
    [0062] Anionic polymers can be selected from the group consisting of: a) Sodium salt of polystyrene sulfonate (PSS) of the formula:
    where n is an integer representing the degree of polymerization, where n ranges from 50 to 20,000, alternatively from 150 to 500; b) Copolymer of sodium salt of polystyrene sulfonate (PSS) and polyl (4-styrenesulfonic acid-comaleic acid) of the formula:
    in which neither are integers representing the degree of polymerization, where n + m ranges from 50 to 20,000, alternatively from 150 to 500; c) λ-carrageenan; d) Dextran sulfate sodium salt; e) Polyacrylic acid (PAA) of the formula:
    where n is an integer representing the degree of polymerization, where n ranges from 50 to 20,000, alternatively from 150 to 1,000; f) Sodium salt of alginic acid; g) Carboxymethylcellulose sodium salt of the formula:
    where: R is H or (CH2) 2COONa and n is an integer represented the degree of polymerization; copolymers thereof and mixtures thereof.
    [0063] Anionic polymers can comprise one or more compounds selected from the group consisting of cosmically active molecules, care ingredients, optically active molecules, pharmaceutical active molecules, biomarkers and mixtures thereof.
    [0064] Colored cationic polymers and colored anionic polymers
    [0065] Colored cationic polymers and colored anionic polymers comprise at least one chromophore and / or at least one fluorophore. Any of the cationic polymers or anionic polymers exemplified above can comprise at least one chromophore and / or at least one fluorophore either in the skeleton or as a pendant group.
    [0066] Chromophores can be selected from the group consisting of radicals derived from nitrobenzene, pigments based on azo, imine, hydrazine, phenothiazine, xanthene, phenanthridine, phthalocyanine and triarylmethane, and those obtained from direct pigments containing a carbonyl group and mixtures thereof. Chromophores can be selected from the group consisting of radicals derived from pigments such as acridone, benzoquinone, anthraquinone, naphthoquinone, benzantrone, anthranthrone, pirantrone, pyrazolantrone, pyrimidinoantrone, flavantrone, indantrone, flavone, (iso) violantrone, isoindolinone, benzimidazone, benzimidazone, benzimidazone, benzimidazone anthrapyridone, pyrazoloquinazolone, perinone, quinacrine, quinophthalone, indigoid, thioindigo, naphthalimide, anthrapyrimidine, diketopyrrolopyrrole and coumarin, and mixtures thereof.
    [0067] Chromophores can be replaced with at least one amine, hydroxyl, sulfate, sulfonate, carboxylate, phosphate, phosphonate, or halide group. These chromophores can be selected from the group consisting of radicals derived from direct nitro acid pigments, acid azoic pigments, acid azine pigments, acid triarylmethane pigments, acid indoamine pigments, and non-quinone acid natural pigments, and mixtures thereof.
    [0068] Chromophores can also be selected from derivatives of any of the direct pigments exemplified in the direct pigments section of this application.
    [0069] Fluorophores can be selected from the group consisting of radicals derived from di-, tetra- or hexasulfonated triazine-stilbenes, coumarins, imidazolines, diazoles, triazoles, benzoxazolines, biphenyl-stilbene optical brighteners, and mixtures thereof.
    [0070] A colored cationic polymer or colored anionic polymer may comprise the same type of chromophore and / or fluorophore or different types of chromophores and / or fluorophores. Having a colored cationic polymer or colored anionic polymer with different types of chromophores and / or fluorophores can help to cover a wide range of color shades that can be obtained in hair that is colored according to the method of the present invention where the first The composition or the second composition comprises such a colored cationic polymer or such a colored anionic polymer.
    [0071] Colored cationic polymers can be selected from the group consisting of: i.Polyethyleneimine (PEI) linear or colored branched formula:
    where men are integers representing the degree of polymerization, where m / n varies from 0 to 1,000 as long as n is different from 0 and / or m + n varies from 50 to 20,000, alternatively from 100 to 3,500; ii. Colored polyallylamine hydrochloride of the formula:
    where men are integers representing the degree of polymerization, where m / n varies from 0 to 1,000 as long as n is different from 0 and / or m + n varies from 50 to 20,000, alternatively from 150 to 800; iii. Colored polydialyldimethylammonium chloride of the formula:
    where men are integers representing the degree of polymerization, where m / n varies from 0 to 1,000 as long as n is different from 0 and / or m + n varies from 50 to 20,000, alternatively from 100 to 3,500; where DYE represents the chromophore or fluorophore that is attached to the polymer backbone either directly or via a straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon based chain, containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms or 1 to 6 atoms of carbon. These polymers can be block copolymers or random copolymers.
    [0072] Colored cationic polymers can be selected from linear polyethyleneimine (PEI) - Rhodamine B of the formula:
    in which men are integers representing the degree of polymerization, where m / n can vary from 0 to 1,000 as long as n is different from 0 and / or m + n can vary from 50 to 20,000, alternatively from 100 to 3,500. These polymers can be block copolymers or random copolymers.
    [0073] Colored anionic polymers can be selected from colored anionic polymers with the following formula:
    where men are integers representing the degree of polymerization, where m / n can vary from 0 to 1,000 as long as n is different from 0 and / or m + n can vary from 50 to 20,000, alternatively from 150 to 500; where DYE represents the chromophore or fluorophore that is attached to the polymer backbone either directly or via a straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon based chain, containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms or 1 to 6 atoms of carbon. These polymers can be block copolymers or random copolymers. Compositions Solvents
    [0074] The first and / or second compositions that are used to carry out the method according to the present invention can further comprise a solvent. The solvent can be selected from water, or a mixture of water and at least one organic solvent to dissolve compounds that would typically not be sufficiently soluble in water. The first and / or second compositions can be aqueous compositions.
    [0075] Suitable organic solvents include, but are not limited to: C1 to C4 lower alkanols (such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol); aromatic alcohols (such as benzyl alcohol and phenoxyethanol); polyols and polyol ethers (such as carbitons, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, monomethyl ether, hexylene glycol, glycerol, ethoxy glycol, butoxyglycol, ethoxidiglycerol, dipropyl glycol, polypropylene glycol) ; propylene carbonate; and mixtures thereof.
    [0076] The solvent can be selected from the group consisting of water, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, glycerol, 1,2-propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethoxy diglycol, and mixtures thereof.
    [0077] Typically, the composition may comprise water as a main ingredient, particularly in a total amount ranging from at least 50%, alternatively from at least 60%, alternatively from at least 70% by total weight of the composition. Typically, when present, the composition comprises a total amount of organic solvents ranging from about 1% to about 30% by weight of the composition. Concentrations
    [0078] The first composition may comprise a total concentration of cationic polymers ranging from 0.1 g / L to 100 g / L, alternatively from 0.5 g / L to 100 g / L, alternatively from 2 g / L to 50 g / L, alternatively from 5 g / L to 10 g / L.
    [0079] The second composition may comprise a total concentration of anionic polymers ranging from 0.1 g / L to 100 g / L, alternatively from 0.5 g / L to 100 g / L, alternatively from 2 g / L to 50 g / L, alternatively from 5 g / L to 10 g / L. PH
    [0080] The first and / or second composition may have a pH ranging from 2 to 14, alternatively from 3 to 11, alternatively from 5 to 10, alternatively from 7 to 9. salt
    [0081] The first and / or the second composition may comprise a cosmetically acceptable salt at a concentration ranging from 0 to 1.5 mol / L, alternatively from 0.05 to 1 mol L, alternatively from 0.2 to 0.5 mol / L.
    [0082] The cosmetically acceptable salt can be selected from the group consisting of an organic salt, a mineral salt and mixtures thereof. The organic salt can be sodium citrate. The mineral salt can be selected from the group consisting of sodium chloride, ammonium sulfate, magnesium chloride, calcium chloride and mixtures thereof. The cosmetically acceptable salt can be sodium chloride. Appliers
    [0083] The first and / or second compositions can be applied to the hair with the use of an applicator such as a brush or a sponge. Alternatively, the first and / or second compositions can be applied to the hair by spraying or foaming the first and / or the second compositions to the hair or by dipping the hair in the first and / or the second composition. Alternatively, the first and / or second compositions can be applied to the hair using printing technology. Hair coloring
    [0084] The present invention also relates to hair coloring that is obtainable by the method according to the present invention. As already explained above, the structure of hair placement is unique in the sense that it is made up of alternating polymeric layers that are formed by alternating deposition of colored cationic polymers and anionic polymers. Hair Coloring Kit
    [0085] The present invention also relates to a hair coloring kit comprising a first compartment comprising the first composition already defined above and a second compartment comprising the second composition already defined above. Other ingredients
    [0086] The first and / or second compositions according to the present invention may comprise, in addition to the ingredients indicated above, other ingredients to further improve the properties of the composition, as long as they are not excluded by the claims.
    [0087] Other suitable ingredients include, but are not limited to: oxidizing agents; alkalizing agents; precursors of oxidative pigments; direct pigments; chelators; radical scavengers; pH modifiers and buffering agents; thickeners and / or rheology modifiers; carbonate ion sources; sources of peroximonocarbonate ions; anionic, cationic, non-ionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof; anionic, cationic, non-ionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, and mixtures thereof; fragrances; enzymes; dispersing agents; peroxide-based stabilizing agents; antioxidants; natural ingredients (such as proteins, protein compounds, and plant extracts); conditioning agents (such as silicones and cationic polymers); ceramics; preservative agents; opacifiers and pearling agents (such as titanium dioxide and mica); and mixtures thereof.
    [0088] Other suitable ingredients mentioned above, but not specifically described below, are listed in International Cosmetics Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, (8th ed .; The Cosmetics, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association). Particularly, vol. 2, sections 3 (Chemical Classes) and 4 (Functions), which are useful in identifying specific adjuvants to achieve a particular purpose or several purposes. Some of these ingredients are discussed below, whose description is of course not exhaustive. Oxidizing agents
    [0089] The first and / or second compositions according to the present invention can further comprise at least one source of an oxidizing agent. Any oxidizing agent known in the literature can be used. Preferred oxidizing agents are water-soluble peroxygen-based oxidizing agents. As used in this report, "water soluble" means that under normal conditions at least 0.1 g, preferably about 1 g, more preferably 10 g of the oxidizing agent can be dissolved in 1 liter of deionized water at 25 ° C Oxidizing agents are valuable for the initial solubilization and discoloration of melanin (bleaching) and for accelerating the oxidation of oxidative pigment precursors (oxidative dyeing) in the hair shaft.
    [0090] The first and / or second compositions may comprise a total amount of oxidizing agents ranging from 0.1% to 10%, alternatively from 1% to 7%, alternatively from 2% to 5% in total weight of the composition.
    [0091] Suitable water-soluble oxidizing agents include, but are not limited to: inorganic peroxygen based materials capable of producing hydrogen peroxide in an aqueous solution.
    [0092] Alternatively, the first and / or second compositions may comprise a total amount of oxidizing agents less than 1%, alternatively less than 0.5%, alternatively less than 0.3%, alternatively less than 0.1% in total weight of the composition. Alternatively, the first and / or the second compositions can be free of oxidizing agents. Having the first and / or the second compositions that comprise a small amount of oxidizing agents or even no oxidizing agents, these compositions are generally less damaging to the hair than the traditional hair coloring compositions that usually comprise a high concentration of agent oxidizing agent.
    [0093] Oxidizing agents based on water-soluble peroxygen include, but are not limited to: hydrogen peroxide; peroxides of inorganic alkali metals (such as sodium periodate and sodium peroxide); organic peroxides (such as urea peroxide and melamine peroxide); bleaching compounds based on inorganic perhydrate salt (such as the alkali metal salts of perborates, percarbonates, phosphates, persilicates, persulfators, among others); and mixtures thereof. Inorganic perhydrate salts can be incorporated, for example, as monohydrates, tetrahydrates. Alkyl / aryl peroxides and / or peroxidases can also be used. Mixtures of two or more of such oxidizing agents can be used, if desired. The oxidizing agents can be presented in an aqueous solution or as a powder that is dissolved before use.
    [0094] The first and / or second compositions may comprise a water-soluble oxidizing agent selected from the group consisting of hydrogen peroxide, percarbonates (which can be used to provide a source of both oxidizing agent and carbonate ions and / or ammonium ions), persulfates, and mixtures thereof.
    [0095] When the first and / or second compositions of the present invention are obtained by mixing a developer composition and a toning composition before use, the oxidizing agent can be present in the developer composition. The developmental composition can be based on any desired formulation support (“chassis”), including any commercial product, for example, an oil-in-water emulsion. Typical developer compositions comprise about 6% or about 9% H2O2 in relation to the total weight of the developer composition. A commercial example is Welloxon® Emulsion with, respectively, about 6% and about 9% H2O2, marketed by Wella and comprising as INCI ingredients: Water, H202, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-25, Salicylic acid, Phosphoric Acid, Phosphate Disodium, Ethidronic Acid. Alkalizing agents
    [0096] The first and / or second compositions according to the present invention can further comprise at least one alkalizing agent. Any alkalizing agent known in the literature can be used.
    [0097] Typically, the first and / or second compositions may comprise a total amount of alkalizing agents ranging from 0.1% to 10%, alternatively from 0.5% to 6%, alternatively from 1% to 4% by weight total composition.
    Alternatively, the first and / or second compositions may comprise a total amount of alkalizing agents less than 1%, alternatively less than 0.5%, alternatively less than 0.3%, alternatively less than 0.1% in total weight of the composition. Alternatively, the first and / or the second compositions can be free of alkalizing agents. Suitable alkalizing agents include, but are not limited to: ammonia; alkanolamines (such as mono-ethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monopropanolamine, dipropanolamine, tripropanolamine 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, and 2-amino- 2-hydroxymethyl-1,3-propanediol); guanidium salts; alkali metal and ammonium hydroxides (such as sodium hydroxide); carbons of alkali metals and ammonium; and mixtures thereof. Typical alkalizing agents are ammonia and / or monoethanolamine.
    [0099] The first and / or second compositions may comprise a total amount of ammonia of less than 1%, alternatively less than 0.5%, alternatively less than 0.3%, alternatively less than 0.1% in total weight of the composition. Alternatively, the first and / or second compositions may be free of ammonia. These modalities are particularly interesting in the sense that these compositions are odorless.
    [00100] Preferably, if present, ammonium ions and carbonate ions are present in the composition in a weight ratio of 3: 1 to 1:10, alternatively from 2: 1 to 1: 5.
    [00101] When the composition of the present invention is obtained by mixing a developer and a toning composition before use, the alkalizing agent is usually present in the toning composition. Precursors of oxidative pigments
    [00102] The first and / or second compositions according to the present invention may further comprise oxidative pigment precursors, which are normally classified either as primary intermediates (also known as developers) or couplers (also known as secondary intermediates). Several couplers can be used as primary intermediates to obtain different nuances. The oxidative pigment precursors can be free bases or cosmetically acceptable salts thereof.
    [00103] Typically, the first and / or second compositions may comprise a total amount of oxidative pigment precursors ranging up to 12%, alternatively from 0.1% to 10%, alternatively from 0.3% to 8%, alternatively from 0.5% to 6% by total weight of the composition.
    [00104] Suitable primary intermediates include, but are not limited to: toluene-2,5-diamine, p-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxyethyl - p-phenylenediamine, hydroxypropyl-bis- (N-hydroxyethyl-p-phenylenediamine), 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2- (1,2-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2.2 '- (2 - (4-aminophenylamino) ethylazanediyl) diethanol, 2- (2,5-diamino-4-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-diol, 2- (7-amino-2H-benzo [b] [1,4] oxazin -4 (3H) -yl) ethanol, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, p-aminophenol, p- (methylamino) phenol, 4-amino-m-cresol, 6-amino-m-cresol, 5-ethyl-o -aminophenol, 2-methoxy-p-phenylenediamine, 2,2'-methylenebis-4-aminophenol, 2,4,5,6-tetraminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triamino-4-pyrimidinol, 1-hydroxyethyl sulfate 4,5-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-butylpyrazole, 4,5- diamino-1-pentylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-benzylpyrazole, 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydropy dimethosulfonate razolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1 (5H) -one, 4,5-diamino-1-hexylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-heptylpyrazole, methoxymethyl-1,4-diaminobenzene, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N- (4-aminophenyl) -1,2-diaminotane, 2 - [(3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-2-yl) oxy] ethanol hydrochloride, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.
    [00105] Suitable couplers include, but are not limited to: resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4,6-dichlorobenzene-1,3-diol, 2,4-dimethylbenzene-1,3-diol, m -aminophenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 2-methyl-5-hydroxyethylaminophenol, 3-amino-2,6-dimethylphenol, 3-amino-2,4-dichlorophenol, 5-amino-6-chloro-o-cresol , 5-amino-4-chloro-o-cresol, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, 2-amino-5-phenylphenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol, 2 - amino-5-ethoxyphenol, 5-methyl-2- (methylamino) phenol, 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole, 1,3-bis- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) -propane, 2, 2 '- (2-methyl-1,3-phenylene) bis (azanediyl) diethanol, benzene-1,3-diamine, 2,2' - (4,6-diamino-1,3-phenylene) bis (oxy) diethanol, 3- (pyrrolidin-1-yl) aniline, 1- (3- (dimethylamino) phenyl) urea, 1- (3-aminophenyl) urea, 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 1,5- naphthalenediol, 2,7-naphthalenediol or 1-acetoxy-2-methylnaphthalene, 4-chloro-2-methylnaphthalen-1-ol, 4-methoxy-2-methylnaphthalen-1-ol, 2,6- dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 2,6-dimethoxy-3,5-pyridinediamine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, pyridine- 2,6-diol, 5,6-dihydroxy-indole, 6-hydroxy-indole, 5,6-dihydroxy-indoline, 3-methyl-1-phenyl-1H-pyrazole-5 (4H) -one , 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene, 2- (benzo [d] [1,3] dioxol-5-ylamino) ethanol (also known as hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline), and mixtures thereof.
    [00106] When the compositions of the invention are obtained by mixing a toning composition and a developing composition, the primary intermediates and couplers are generally incorporated into the toning composition. Direct pigments
    [00107] The first and / or second compositions according to the present invention can further comprise compatible direct pigments, in an amount sufficient to provide additional coloring, particularly in terms of intensity. Typically, the first and / or second compositions may comprise a total amount of direct pigments ranging from about 0.05% to about 4% by weight of the total composition.
    [00108] Suitable direct pigments include, but are not limited to: acid pigments such as Acid Yellow 1, Acid Orange 3, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Blue 9, Acid Violet 43, HC Blue 16, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 25, Acid Red 4; basic pigments such as Basic Brown 17, Basic Red 118, Basic Orange 69, Basic Red 76, Basic Brown 16, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Red 2, Basic Blue 99, Basic Yellow 29, Basic Red 51, Basic Orange 31, Basic Yellow 87, Basic Blue 124, 4- (3- (4-amino-9, 10-dioxo-9,10-dihydroanthracen-1-ylamino) methyl sulfate) propyl) -4-methylmorpholin-4-ium, (E) -1- (2- (4- (4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl) diazenyl) phenyl) (ethyl) amino) ethyl) -3-methyl -1H-imidazol-3-ium, (E) -4- (2- (4- (dimethylamino) phenyl) diazenyl) -1-methyl-1H-imidazol-3-ium-3-yl) butane-1-sulfonate , (E) -4- (4- (2-methyl-2-phenylhydrazono) methyl) pyridinium-1-yl) butane-1-sulfonate, N, N-dimethyl-3- (4- (methylamino bromide) ) -9,10-dioxo-4a, 9,9a, 10-tetrahydro-anthracen-1-ylamino) -N-propylpropan-1-amine; dispersed pigments such as Scattered Red 17, Scattered Violet 1, Scattered Red 15, Scattered Black 9, Scattered Blue 3, Scattered Blue 23, Scattered Blue 377; nitro pigments such as 1- (2- (4-nitrophenylamino) ethyl) urea, 2- (4-methyl-2-nitrophenylamino) ethanol, 4-nitrobenzene-1,2-diamine, 2-nitrobenzene-1,4-diamine , picramic acid, Red HC N ° 13, 2,2 '- (2-nitro-1,4-phenylene) b is (azanediyl) diethanol, Yellow HC N ° 5, Red HC N ° 7, Blue HC N ° 2, Yellow HC N ° 4, Yellow HC N ° 2, Orange HC N ° 1, Red HC N ° 1, 2- (4-amino-2-chloro-5-nitrophenylamino) ethanol, Red HC N ° 3 , 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -3-nitrophenol, 2-amino-3-nitrophenol, 2- (3- (methylamino) -4-nitrophenoxy) ethanol, 3- (3-amino -4-nitrophenyl) propane-1,2-diol, Yellow HC N ° 11, HC Violet N ° 1, Orange HC N ° 2, Orange HC N ° 3, Yellow HC N ° 9, Red HC N ° 10, Red HC N ° 11, 2- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -4,6-dinitrophenol, Blue HC N ° 12, Yellow HC N ° 6, Yellow HC N ° 12, Blue HC N ° 10, Yellow HC N ° 7, A yellow HC N ° 10, Blue HC N ° 9, 2-chloro-6- (ethylamino) -4-nitrophene 1,6-nitropyridine-2,5-diamine, Violet HC N ° 2, 2-amino-6-chlorine -4-nitrophenol, 4- (3- hid roxipropylamino) -3-nitrophenol, Yellow HC N ° 13, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, Red HC N ° 14, Yellow HC N ° 15, Yellow HC N ° 14, N2-methyl -6-nitropyridine-2,5-diamine, N1-allyl-2-nitrobenzene-1,4-diamine, Red HC No. 8, Green HCN No. 1, Blue HC No. 14; natural pigments such as Anato, Antocianine, Beet, Carotene, Capsanthin, Lycopene, Chlorophyll, Henna, Indigo, Cochineal; and mixtures thereof.
    [00109] When the compositions are obtained by mixing a toning composition and a developing composition, direct pigments are usually incorporated into the toning composition. Chelators
    [00110] The first and / or second compositions according to the present invention may further comprise chelators (also known as "chelating agent", "sequestering agent", or "sequestering agent") in an amount sufficient to reduce the amount of metals available to interact with the formulation components, particularly oxidizing agents, more particularly peroxides, chelators are well known in the literature and a non-exhaustive list of these can be found in AE Martell & RM Smith, Critical Stability Constants, Vol. 1 , Plenum Press, New York & London (1974) and AE Martell & RD Hancock, Metal Complexes in Aqueous Solution, Plenum Press, New York & London (1996), both of which are incorporated herein by reference.
    [00111] Typically, the first and / or second compositions may comprise a total amount of chelators ranging from at least 0.01%, alternatively from 0.01% to 5%, alternatively from 0.25% to 3%, alternatively from 0.5% to 1% in total weight of the composition.
    [00112] Suitable chelators include, but are not limited to: carboxylic acids (such as aminocarboxylic acids), phosphonic acids (such as aminophosphonic acids), polyphosphoric acids (such as linear polyphosphoric acids), salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. "Salts of the same" means - in the context of chelators - all salts comprising the same functional structure as the pendant to which they refer and including alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts , substituted ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof; alternatively sodium salts, potassium salts, ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof; alternatively monoethanolammonium salts, diethanolammonium salts, triethanolamine salts, and mixtures thereof.
    [00113] Suitable aminocarboxylic acid chelators comprise at least one carboxylic acid (-COOH) portion and at least one nitrogen atom. Suitable aminocarboxylic acid chelators include, but are not limited to: diethylenetriamine pentacetic acid (DTP A), ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS), ethylenediamine diglutatic acid (EDGA), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine disuccinic acid (HPDS), glycinamine acid N, N'-disuccinic (GADS), ethylenediamine-N-N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-NN-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylene diaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), ethylene diacetic acid (EDC) ), ethylenediamine-N-N'-bis (orthohydroxy phenyl acetic acid) (EDDHA), diaminoalkyldi (sulfosuccinic acid) (DDS), N, N'-bis (2-hydroxy benzyl) ethylenediamine-N, N'-diacetic (HBED), salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. Other suitable aminocarboxylic type chelators include, but are not limited to: iminodiacetic acid derivatives such as N-2-hydroxy ethyl N, diacetic N or glyceryl imino-diacetic acid, iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxy propyl sulfonic acid and aspartic acid N-carboxymethyl N-2-hydroxy propyl-3-sulfonic acid, β-alanine-N, N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N, N-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N- monoacetic and chelators of the type iminodisuccinic acid, ethanoldiglycine acid, salts thereof, derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof. Other suitable aminocarboxylic type chelators include, but are not limited to: dipicolinic acid, 2-phosphonobutane-1,2,4-tricarboxylic acid, salts thereof, derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.
    [00114] Suitable aminophosphonic acid chelators comprise an aminophosphonic acid moiety (- PO3H2) or its derivative - PO3R2, where R2 is a C1 to C6 alkyl or aryl radical and salts thereof. Suitable aminophosphonic acid chelators include, but are not limited to: aminotri- (1-ethylphosphonic acid), ethylene-diaminatetra- (1-ethylphosphonic acid), aminotri- (1-propylphosphonic acid), aminotri- (isopropylphosphonic acid), salts of them, and mixtures thereof; alternatively aminotri- (methylenephosphonic acid), ethylene-diamine-tetra-acid (methylenephosphonic) (EDTMP) and diethylene-triamine-penta- (methylenephosphonic acid) (DTPMP), salts thereof, and mixtures thereof .
    [00115] Suitable alternative chelators include, but are not limited to: polyethyleneimines, polyphosphoric acid type chelators, ethidonic acid, diacetic methylglycine acid, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) iminodiacetic acid, minodissuccinic acid, N, N-Dicarboxymethyl-L- glutamic acid, N-lauroyl-N, N ', N "-ethylenediamine diacetic, salts thereof, derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.
    [00116] In a specific embodiment, the composition comprises a chelator selected from the group consisting of diethylenetriamine-N, N ', N "-polyacids, diethylenetriamineapenta-acetic acid (DTPA), diethylenetrotriaminapenta (methylene phosphonic acid) (DTPMP) , diamine-N, N'-dipoleic acid, monoamine monoamide-N, N'-dipoleic acid, ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS), salts thereof, derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof; alternatively ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS).
    [00117] When the compositions of the invention are obtained by mixing a toning composition and a developing composition, the chelators can be incorporated into the toning composition and / or the developing composition. A chelator is usually present in the developer composition for reasons of stability. Radical kidnappers
    [00118] The first and / or second compositions according to the present invention can further comprise a scavenger radical scavenger. As used in this report, the term "radical scavenger" refers to a species that can react with a radical, preferably a carbonate radical to convert the radical species through a series of rapid reactions into a less reactive species. In one embodiment, the radical scavenger is different from the alkalizing agent and / or is present in an amount sufficient to reduce damage to the hair during the dyeing and / or bleaching process.
    [00119] Typically, the first and / or second compositions may comprise a total amount of radical scavengers ranging from 0.1% to 10%, alternatively from 1% by weight to 7% by total weight of the composition.
    [00120] Suitable radical scavengers include, but are not limited to: alkanolamines, amino sugars, amino acids, amino acid esters, and mixtures thereof; alternatively 3-amino-1-propanol, 4-amino-1-butanol, 5-amino-1-pentanol, 1-amino-2-propanol, 1-amino-2-butanol, 1-amino-2-pentanol, 1 -amino-3-pentanol, 1-amino-4-pentanol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropane-1,2-diol, glucosamine , N-acetylglucosamine, glycine, arginine, lysine, proline, glutamine, histidine, sarcosine, serine, glutamic acid, tryptophan, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; alternatively glycine, sarcosine, lysine, serine, 2 methoxyethylamine, glucosamine, glutamic acid, morpholine, piperdine, ethylamine, 3-amino-1-propanol, and mixtures thereof. As used in this report, the term "salts thereof - in the context of radical scavengers - means particularly potassium salts, sodium salts, ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof. PH modifiers and buffering agents
    [00121] The first and / or second compositions according to the present invention may further comprise, in addition to the alkalizing agent discussed above, a pH modifier and / or buffering agent.
    [00122] Suitable pH modifiers and / or buffering agents include, but are not limited to: ammonia; alkanolamides (such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monopropanolamine, dipropanolamine, tripropanolamine, tripropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-hydroxy methyl-1,3, -propandiol); guanidium salts; alkali metal and ammonium hydroxides and carbonates; and mixtures thereof.
    [00123] Other pH modifiers and / or buffering agents include, but are not limited to: sodium hydroxide; ammonium carbonate; acidulants (such as inorganic and inorganic acids including, for example, phosphoric acid, acetic acid, ascorbic acid, citric or tartaric acid, hydrochloric acid); and mixtures thereof. Thickeners and / or rheology modifiers
    [00124] The first and / or second compositions according to the invention may further comprise a thickener in an amount sufficient to provide the compositions with a viscosity such that it can be easily applied to the hair without unduly draining from the hair causing dirt.
    [00125] Typically, the first and / or second compositions may comprise a total amount of thickeners ranging from at least 0.1%, alternatively at least 0.5%, alternatively at least 1% by total weight of the composition.
    [00126] Suitable thickeners include, but are not limited to: associative polymers, polysaccharides, non-associative polycarboxylic polymers, and mixtures thereof. Carbonate ion sources
    [00127] The first and / or second compositions according to the present invention may further comprise a source of carbonate ions, carbamate ions, hydrogen carbonate ions, and mixtures thereof in an amount sufficient to reduce damage to the hair during the dyeing process.
    [00128] Typically, the first and / or second compositions may comprise a total amount of a carbonate ion source ranging from 0.1% to 15%, alternatively from 0.1% to 10%, alternatively from 1% to 7% by weight of the total composition.
    [00129] Suitable sources of carbonate ions include, but are not limited to: sodium carbonate, sodium hydrogen carbonate, potassium carbonate, potassium hydrogen carbonate, guanidine carbonate, guanidine hydrogen carbonate, lithium carbonate, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate , barium carbonate, ammonium carbonate, ammonium hydrogen carbonate and mixtures thereof; alternatively sodium hydrogen carbonate, potassium hydrogen carbonate, and mixtures thereof; alternatively ammonium carbonate, ammonium hydrogen carbonate, and mixtures thereof. Conditioning agents
    [00130] The first and / or second compositions according to the present invention can further comprise a conditioning agent, and / or can be used in combination with a composition comprising a conditioning agent.
    [00131] Typically, the first and / or second compositions may comprise a total amount of conditioning agents ranging from 0.05% to 20%, alternatively from 0.1% to 15%, alternatively from 0.2% to 10 %, alternatively from 0.2% to 2%, alternatively from 0.5% to 2% in total weight of the composition. A conditioning agent can be included in a separate pre- and / or post-treatment composition.
    [00132] Suitable conditioning agents include, but are not limited to: silicones, aminosilicones, fatty alcohols, polymeric resins, polybox carboxylic acid esters, cationic polymers, cationic surfactants, insoluble oils and materials derived from oils and mixtures thereof. Additional conditioning agents include mineral oils and other oils such as glycerin and sorbitol. Surfactants
    [00133] The first and / or second compositions according to the present invention can further comprise a surfactant. Suitable surfactants generally have a lipophilic chain length of about 8 to about 30 carbon atoms and can be selected from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
    [00134] Typically, the first and / or second compositions may comprise a total amount of surfactants ranging from 1% to 60%, alternatively from 2% to 30%, alternatively from 8% to 25%, alternatively from 10% to 20 Total weight% of the composition.
    [00135] The first and / or second compositions may comprise a mixture of an anionic surfactant and an amphoteric surfactant with one or more non-ionic surfactants. The first and / or second compositions may comprise a total amount of anionic surfactants ranging from 0.1% to 20%, alternatively from 0.1% to 15%, alternatively from 5% to 15% in total weight of the composition; and a total amount of amphoteric and / or non-anionic components that can vary, independently of each other, from 0.1% to 15%, alternatively from 0.5% to 10%, alternatively from 1% to 8% in total weight composition. Ionic resistance
    [00136] The first and / or second compositions of the present invention may also have an ionic resistance, as defined in this report, of less than about 1.35 mol / kg, alternatively from about 0.10 to about 0.75 mol / kg, alternatively from about 0.20 to about 0.60 mol / kg. Although we do not want to stick to the theory, it is believed that the value of ionic strength can also affect the resulting viscosity and the properties of adhesion to the root of the compositions. Ionic resistance can be affected by salt sources such as pigments, sodium sulfate, ammonium carbonate-based antioxidants and chelators such as EDDS. The pigment tends to have the greatest effect on ionic strength and therefore the amounts added to provide any particular shade need to be considered in terms of ionic strength as well as the result of the pigment to prevent viscosity and root adhesion problems.
    [00137] The ionic resistance of the compositions is a function of the concentration of all ions present in that solution and is determined according to the formula:
    where mi = molality of ion i (M = mol./Kg H2O), zi = charge number of that ion, and the sum is made with all the ions in the solution. For example, for a 1: 1 electrolyte such as sodium chloride, the ionic resistance is equal to the concentration, but for MgSO4 the ionic resistance is four times greater. Generally, multivalent ions contribute a lot to ionic resistance.
    [00138] For example, the ionic resistance of a mixed solution of 0.050 M Na2SO4 and 0.020 M NaCl is: I = 1/2 ((2 x (+1) 2 x 0.050) + (+1) 2 x 0.020 + (-2) 2 x 0.050 + (-1) 2 x 0.020) = 0.17 M. Foam
    [00139] The first and / or second compositions of the invention can be presented in the form of foam that is applied to the hair. Foaming is typically achieved by using a foaming agent incorporated into the composition in combination with a manually operated foaming device. Such manually operated foaming devices are known in the literature and include aerosol devices, compression foams and pump foams.
    [00140] Suitable foaming agents include surfactants such as anionic, nonionic and amphoteric surfactants, nonionic surfactants being preferred; polysaccharides; polyvinyl pyrrolidone and copolymers thereof; acrylic polymers such as acrylates copolymer (Aculyn 33) and acrylates / Steareth-20 methacrylates (Aculyn 22); C12C24 fatty acids such as stearates and mixtures thereof. EXAMPLES
    [00141] The following are non-limiting examples of compositions of the present invention. The examples are given for illustrative purposes only and should not be construed as limiting the present invention, since many variations of them are possible without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention, which will be identified by the person skilled in the art.
    [00142] In the following section, the solvent used to prepare the different compositions is water, unless otherwise specified. Synthetic methods for obtaining the different colored cationic or anionic polymers that can be used in the method according to the present invention: Colored cationic polymers • Polyallylamine hydrochloride marked with Rhodamine B isothiocyanate (PAH- RhoB iso): -Start materials: -Polyalylamine hydrochloride (PAH), Mw = 56,000 Da (CAS: 71550-124) available from Sigma- Aldrich -Rhodamine-B isothiocyanate (RhoB_iso) (CAS: 36877-69-7) available from Sigma-Aldrich -Method of synthesis:
    [00143] The following method was used to label polyallylamine hydrochloride (PAH) with Rhodamine B isothiocyanate (RhoB_iso): 1) Dissolve 60 mg of polyallylamine hydrochloride (PAH) in 10 ml of carbonate buffer (pH 9); 2) Mix the dissolved polymer with 1 mg of Rhodamine-B isothiocyanate (RhoB_iso) dissolved in 1 mL of DMSO; 3) Stir for 24 hours at 4 ° C and dialysis the resulting mixture against distilled water. • Rodamine B-labeled branched polyethyleneimine (PEI-RhoB iso): -Start materials: -Branched polyethyleneimine (PEI), LUPASOL G 500, Mw = 25,000 Da (CAS: 9002-98-6) available from BASF-Rhodamine isothiocyanate -B (RhoB_iso) (CAS: 36877-69-7) available from Sigma-Aldrich -Synthesis method:
    [00144] The same method as that used to label polyallylamine hydrochloride with Rhodamine B isothiocyanate was used, where PAH was replaced by PEI. -Branched polyethyleneimine marked with Reactive Red 180 (PEI- Red): -Start materials: -Branched polyethyleneimine (PEI) (LUPASOL G 500), Mw = 25,000 Da, available from BASF (CAS: 9002-98-6) -Red Reactive 180 available from S3 Chemicals (CAS: 72828-036). - Synthesis method:
    [00145] The following method was used to label Branched Polyethyleneimine (PEI) with Reactive Red 180 (Red): 1) Dissolve 12.5 g of a 40% by weight solution of branched polyethyleneimine (PEI) in 200 ml of a solution methanol containing 14.05 g of Reactive Red 180; 2) Stir the suspension at 60 ° C for 1 hour; 3) Stir the resulting mixture at room temperature for 12 hours; 4) Centrifuge the reaction mixture and collect the supernatant; 5) Add methanol to the precipitate, centrifuge the mixture and collect the supernatant: 6) Repeat step 5) until the resulting supernatant is colorless; 7) Mix all the supernatant solutions resulting from steps 4) to 6); 8) Add 12.5 ml of a 32% by weight hydrochloric acid solution to the mixture resulting from step 7) 9) Centrifuge the resulting suspension and collect the precipitate; 10) Wash the precipitate with acetone until the resulting supernatant is colorless; 11) Dry the precipitate and dissolve it in water; 12) Dialyze the resulting solution against a solution of 0.15 M NaCl and 10-4 to 10-5 M HCl 13) Freeze dry the product • Branched polyethyleneimine (PEI) marked with Remazol Blue R shiny (PEI-Blue): -Starting materials: -Branched polyethyleneimine (PEI), LUPASOL G 500, Mw = 25,000 Da (CAS: 9002-98-6) available from BASF Synthesis method:
    [00146] The same method as that used to label branched polyethyleneimine with Reactive Red 180 was used, where Reactive Red 180 was replaced by Remazol Blue R glossy and where in step 1) 12.5 g of a branched polyethyleneimine solution (PEI) at 40% by weight were dissolved in 200 ml of a methanol solution containing 7.3 g of shiny Remazol Blue R. -Branched polyethyleneimine marked with Reactive Blue 116 (PEI- Cyan): -Starting materials: -Branched polyethyleneimine (PEI), LUPASOL G 500, Mw = 25,000 Da (CAS: 9002-98-6), available from BASF -Reactive Blue 116 (CAS: 61969-03-7) available at mijn-eigen.nl. - Synthesis method:
    [00147] The same method as that used to label branched polyethyleneimine with Reactive Red 180 was used, where Reactive Red 180 was replaced with Reactive Blue 116 and where in step 1) 12.5 g of a branched polyethyleneimine solution (PEI) at 40% by weight were dissolved in 200 ml of a methanol solution containing 11.1 g of Reactive Blue 116. • Polydiallyldimethylammonium chloride copolymerized with methacryloxyethyl thiocarbamoyl Rhodamine B (PDADMAC-RhoB): monomeric (CAS. 7398-69-8) available from Sigma-Aldrich -Methacryloxyethyl thiocarbamoyl Rhodamine B (RhoB), available from Polisciences -Synthesis method:
    [00148] 1.61 g of monomeric diallyldimethylammonium chloride and 33 mg of methacryloxyethyl thiocarbamoyl Rhodamine B were copolymerized in 20 ml of 50% methanol at 80 ° C in a nitrogen atmosphere for 24 hours using 10 mg of potassium peroxodisulfate as initiator. After polymerization, the colored polymer was dialyzed against distilled water. Colored anionic polymers ■ Polystyrene sulphonate copolymerized with Rhodamine B isothiocyanate (PSS-RhoB): ■ Starting materials: ■ monomeric sodium 4-vinylbenzenesulfonate (CAS: 2695-37-6) available from Sigma-Aldrich. ■ Methacryloxyethyl thiocarbamoyl Rhodamine B (RhoB), available from Polisciences ■ Synthesis method:
    [00149] The same method as that used to copolymerize polydialldimethylammonium chloride with methacryloxyethyl thiocarbamyl Rhodamine B was used, where 1.61 g of monomeric diallyldimethylammonium chloride was replaced by 2.05 g of 4-vinylbenzenesulfonate monomeric sodium. Colorless anionic polymers used in the following examples ■ Sodium polystyrene sulfonate (PSS) salt, Mw = 70,000 Da (CAS: 25704-18-1) available from Sigma-Aldrich.
    [00150] The hair samples that were used in the following experimental data sets were samples of natural blond hair available from Kerling International Haarfabrik GmbH, Backnang, Germany, under reference number 826533. First set of experimental data - Influence of the number of step sequences and the type of outermost layer on the color intensity and fixation of hair coloring
    [00151] In the following data set, the following first and second compositions were used. The first and second compositions were prepared immediately before application.


    [00152] The first and second compositions were applied to a hair sample according to different sequences, changing the application of the first composition with the application of the second composition. The first and second compositions were prepared immediately before application.
    [00153] The first composition was applied to the hair according to the following protocol: (i) Dip the hair sample in 5 mL of the first composition at 55 ° C in a test tube; (ii) Shake the first composition with the hair sample for 15 minutes at 55 ° C in a laboratory drying cabinet; (iii) Rinse the hair sample with warm fresh water at a temperature of 30 ° C to 35 ° C.
    [00154] The second composition was applied to the hair according to the following protocol: (iv) Dip the hair sample in 5 mL of the second composition at 55 ° C in a test tube; (v)) Shake the second composition with the hair sample for 15 minutes at 55 ° C in a laboratory drying cabinet; (vi)) Rinse the hair sample with warm fresh water at a temperature of 30 ° C to 35 ° C.
    [00155] At the end of each sequence of application of the first and second compositions to the hair, the hair sample was dried first with paper towels and then with a hair dryer. Comparative example 1
    [00156] A hair sample was dyed according to the following protocol: (i) Dip the hair sample in 5 mL of the first composition at 55 ° C in a test tube; (ii) Shake the first composition with the hair sample for 15 minutes at 55 ° C in a laboratory drying cabinet; (iii) Rinse the hair sample with warm fresh water at a temperature of 30 ° C to 35 ° C. Sequences of application of the first and second compositions to the hair:
    Wash with shampoo:
    [00157] Each of the dyed hair samples that were obtained in examples 1A to 1E and in comparative examples 1 to 3 were washed 3 times with Wella Brillance shampoo available in Germany in August 2014 using the following procedure: (i) Wash the hair sample with fresh running water for 10 seconds; (ii) Add 2-3 drops of shampoo to the hair sample; (iii) Rub the hair sample with your fingers for 30 seconds; (iv) Rinse the hair sample with fresh tap water at a temperature of 30 ° C to 35 ° C; (v) Repeat steps (ii) to (iv) two more times; (vi) Dry the hair sample first with paper towels and then with a hair dryer. L *, a *, b * measurements
    [00158] The colorimetric parameters in the CIE L * a * b * system were measured for each of the hair samples obtained in examples 1A to 1E and in comparative examples 1 to 3 before after washing using a Minolta CM- spectrophotometer 508i (the illuminant is D65 daylight with 10 ° observer) where L * represents the luminosity of the color, a * indicates the axis of green / red and b * the axis of blue / yellow. The total color change is represented by ΔE where ΔE is defined by the following formula: ΔE = [(ΔL *) 2+ (Δa *) 2 + (Δb *) 2] 1/2 Results and conclusion:

    [00159] When comparing the L * values measured for examples 1A, 1C, 1E before washing, it can be seen that the color intensity of the dyed hair with the first and second compositions according to the present invention increases with increasing the number of times the sequence of steps of the method according to the present invention is repeated.
    [00160] When comparing the ΔE values measured for examples 1A and 1C, it can be seen that the ΔE value decreases with the increase in the number of times the sequence of steps of the method according to the present invention is repeated .
    [00161] When comparing the ΔE values obtained for example 1A vs. comparative example 3 or for example 1C vs. In example 1B, the value of ΔE is generally lower when the last layer that is placed on the hair is made of an anionic polymer, that is, the hair color obtained in the hair is characterized by better fixation. This demonstrates that the anionic layer can act as a protective layer for the colored cationic layer that is placed below it. Second set of experimental data - Examples of a method according to the present invention where a first composition comprising a colored cationic polymer and a second composition comprising a colorless anionic polymer or a colored anionic polymer were usedExample 2A



    [00162] A hair sample was dyed according to the following protocol: (i) Prepare the first and second compositions immediately before application; (ii) Dip the hair sample in 10 mL of the first composition at 40 ° C in a test tube; (iii) Shake the first composition with the hair sample for 20 minutes at 40 ° C in a laboratory drying cabinet; (iv) Rinse the hair sample three times with 10 ml of fresh hot candy at a temperature of 30 to 35 ° C in a test tube with agitation for 5 minutes; (v) Dip the hair sample in 10 mL of the second composition at 40 ° C in a test tube; (vi) Stir the second composition with the hair sample for 30 minutes at 40 ° C in a laboratory oven; (vii) Rinse the hair sample three times with 10 ml of fresh hot candy at a temperature of 30 to 35 ° C in a test tube with agitation for 5 minutes; (viii) Repeat steps (ii) to (vii) a second time (ix) Dry the hair sample first with paper towels and then with a hair dryer. Example 2B
    Color Intensity: Measurement
    [00164] The color intensity of the dyed hair samples obtained in examples 2A and 2B were compared visually. Result and conclusion
    [00165] The color intensity of the dyed hair sample obtained in example 2A was greater than the color intensity of the dyed hair sample obtained in Example 2B. Therefore, with the use of a colored anionic polymer in place of a colorless anionic polymer it is possible to provide hair color with a better color intensity. In addition, as seen in this example, it is possible to combine different colored cationic polymers and colored anionic polymers to obtain the desired color result in an easy way. [00166] The dimensions and values disclosed in this report should not be interpreted as strictly limited to the exact numerical values cited. On the contrary, unless otherwise specified, such a dimension is intended to indicate both the recited value and a functionally equivalent range around that value. For example, a dimension indicated as "40 mm" is intended to indicate "about 40 mm".
    权利要求:
    Claims (8)
    [0001]
    1. Method for dyeing hair, characterized by the fact that it comprises: a) carrying out the following sequence of steps: i) applying a first composition comprising colored cationic polymer to a first portion of the hair, in which the colored cationic polymer is polyethyleneimine; and ii) applying a second composition comprising anionic polymer to a second portion of the hair, wherein the anionic polymer is a sodium sulfate salt of dextran sulfate; the first and second portions of the hair having at least one common area; and b) repeat step a) at least once, where the common area of each of the repeated steps a) has at least one common area with: c) the common area of step a); and d) the common area of each of the other steps a) repeated, if step a) is repeated more than once; wherein in step a) or at least one of the steps a) repeated, the anionic polymer is a colored anionic polymer.
    [0002]
    2. Method according to claim 1, characterized by the fact that step i) or ii) further comprises the subsequent substeps of: -removing excess, respectively, from the first composition or the second hair composition; or -apply energy to the hair in the form of heat, ultrasound, infrared or microwave; or wash or rinse your hair.
    [0003]
    3. Method according to claim 1, characterized by the fact that: the first composition comprises a total concentration of colored cationic polymers ranging from 0.1 g / L to 100 g / L and the second composition comprises a total concentration of polymers anionic substances ranging from 0.1 g / L to 100 g / L.
    [0004]
    Method according to claim 1, characterized by the fact that the first or second composition has a pH ranging from 2 to 14.
    [0005]
    5. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the first or second composition comprises a cosmetically acceptable salt in a concentration ranging from 0.05 to 1.5 mol / L.
    [0006]
    6. Method according to claim 1, characterized by the fact that before step a), the hair is pre-treated to modify the number of positive or negative charges on some parts of the hair or on the whole hair.
    [0007]
    7. Method according to claim 6, characterized by the fact that the hair is pre-treated by chemical means or including pH change, oxidation, reduction, discoloration, plasma treatment, ozone treatment, electrocomposition, ion treatment with dry or wet hair.
    [0008]
    Hair dyeing kit, characterized in that it comprises a first compartment comprising the first composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 7, and a second compartment comprising the second composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 7 .
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    法律状态:
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    2020-12-01| B16A| Patent or certificate of addition of invention granted|Free format text: PRAZO DE VALIDADE: 20 (VINTE) ANOS CONTADOS A PARTIR DE 29/10/2015, OBSERVADAS AS CONDICOES LEGAIS. |
    优先权:
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    EP14190885.5|2014-10-29|
    EP14190885.5A|EP3015135B1|2014-10-29|2014-10-29|Hair colouration with a cationic or anionic coloured polymer, method and kit thereof|
    PCT/US2015/058020|WO2016069877A1|2014-10-29|2015-10-29|Hair colouration, method and kit thereof|
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